Finally got out!
Yesterday, I found a good excuse to "work from home" - we had a newfence put in. Luckily, the crew got everything done in no time flatand was out of there by 1pm. The hubby was also able to leave work abit early, so out we went!
We went to Rio del Mar first, but ended up at the Hook. It appeared to be the normal crowded place, but not too bad when we were actuallyin the water - as long as you stay at the far end near Sharks.Despite a pretty high tide, I caught a few fun ones right at thebeginning. Typical South Swell - nothing for a while, then BAM, ithits! The frustrating thing, is after not being out for a week and ahalf, I feel like I've taken a half-step back in my wave catching. Iwas starting to be able to stand up in the pocket at least 1/2 of thetime, and didn't get to that point at all yesterday. I did get somepractice by getting a couple turns in, but it doesn't really do muchwhen you're in white water. Boy, there really seems to be a fineline between paddling one extra paddle to actually catch the wave,and not standing up too slowly. Is this comparable to finallylinking your turns in snowboarding? Oh well - I try to think of itas motivation to go out more often - and hopefully, some day not workthe 9-5 grind so I have a more flexible schedule.
By the end, the high tide didn't seem to go down, and I got coldfast. The pregnancy seems to make me feel that way faster now...(Or, it could be the bigger-sized 3/2 I have to wear now.) Good thingwe got out when we did though. After changing out of the suits, thefog rolled in as quick as it takes me to walk across the parking lot,got to the bathroom and come back!
So, while I was out there, I was thinking about my top 5 stokes:
1) Clearing your mind with the salty sea air in your lungs, fillingit only with thoughts on what you need to do to take full advantageof the waves.
2) Clearing your nose (and lungs) from pollution with the salt water
3) Removing the tension from your muscles, and filling them muchneeded blood and oxygen by working them with paddling
4) The feeling of "Lil Flipper" paddling with me in my stomach. ;)(That's the baby's nickname, after seeing what s/he does in therethrough ultrasound.)
5) Feeling wave spray in your ear (wishfully thinking that the waveyou're on is at least head high) and needing to go faster so itdoesn't close out on you. (Only once so far, but strive to feel thisagain!)
Can't wait to go out again this weekend! I hope it's good! :)
posted by Gloria Riola @ 11:41 AM
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